Painting Plastic Figures 2

Page 2
Straightening/Bending Arms and Legs
Arms and legs can be either straightened or bent by cutting a small V-shaped gap and bending or pulling to the desired shape (Figure 3.1). Use Epoxy filler with perhaps a smaller wedge of plastic within the cut to fill out the gap. You many have to hold the new shape in place until the epoxy dries as the plastic has a natural springiness to it and will tend to return to its original position (Figure 3.2).
Adding Backpacks, Rifles, Canteens, Cups, Etc.
Most plastic figures come with equipment that appears to be an extension of the body with no visible lines of demarcation. If you want to achieve a realistic look with total authenticity, the items should be completely cut off and cemented back in position, replaced with a new piece or alternatively the sides should be trimmed or cut away to give a true relief effect (Figure 3.3 & 3.4). The wealth of 1:32 and 1:35 figure kits and accessory packs by such makers as Shenandoah, Warriors, Andrea and Pegaus offer an unlimited source of items to add to and enhance your figures. Use epoxy putty to attach the items.

Replacing Rifles, Swords, Etc.
Rifle barrels and saber blades can be replaced by using after market pieces mentioned above or by making them out of brass rod. Use 3/64" or 1/32" brass to replace the barrel and flatten the rod to make a saber blade.
The Painting
Once you have cleaned and prepared your figures it’s time to make a decision on painting them. You should first decide on the type of paint you want to use. Any paint is fine but you should choose between the two types most commonly used. They are acrylics such as Vallejo, Andrea, and inexpensive craft paints sold in craft stores, all of which are water-based, and enamels such as Humbrol and Testor’s Model Master, which are petroleum-based. The type you use is a matter of preference as neither holds a distinct advantage over the other and both are available in a wide variety of colors.
Apply a light coat of
liquid latex to the figure

Now that you have your paint, the next step is to coat and prime your figures. The biggest problem with painting plastic figures is that the paint tends to flake or chip off, especially around flexible parts like rifles and swords. The best way to avoid this is to coat the entire figure in liquid latex (which is typically used to make molds). A very thin coat of latex acts like a flexible glove around the figure. The paint will bond or adhere to the latex and remain flexible even when stressed. Latex remains tacky even after it has dried so avoid handling the figure as much as possible and watch out for pet hairs!

Apply a light coat of primer

After the latex has dried to a tacky state you have to prime the figure. The primer will adhere to the latex and give a uniform base for your colors. Any type of primer will do: Krylon or KITZ, white or light gray is perfect and inexpensive compared to hobby primers but I find Floquil figure primer has a much finer spray and will not cover up detail. Apply only one thin coat or light mist of primer being careful not to put it on too thick! If you wish to skip the liquid latex step you may use Rust-Oleum Plastic Primer. This specialty plastic primer offers superior paint adhesion on all types of plastics but still will remain fragile on easily bendable figure parts; guns, swords, etc. Always let the primer dry for 24 hours, allowing the solvents in it to evaporate.
Moving on to the actual painting of the figure, you should do some basic research on the uniforms of the period before you start. There are countless uniform guides on the market that offer good color selections and ideas. The Osprey series covers just about any time period and features accurate, full-color plates in each book. Another good source for uniform colors is to contact the various companies that make uniforms for renactors and ask for cloth samples. The C. D. Jargin company puts out a nice sample sheet of Civil War fabrics that covers all the various uniform colors of the Civil War period.
Basic painting of the figure showing how it is painted from the inside out (flesh first, uniform...)
When painting figures, we find it is best to paint several at a time. Paint from the inside out; that is, paint the faces and hands first, hair next, then the uniforms and finish with the equipment. There is one thing that most people tend to do which should be AVOIDED at all costs...Do not paint the eyeballs big and white!! Many a good figure is ruined by “the bug eye stare.” In the 54mm scale you do not see bright white eyes. I prefer to darken the eye area with a little line rather than paint a big bug eyed eyeball. If you must use white, use just a hint.

Once everything is painted you must make one final decision and that is whether you want a basic toy soldier style paint job which is great for large dioramas or a more realistic historical miniature look.

If you want the basic look, then you should spray and seal your figure with a clear protective coat in either a matt or gloss finish depending on your preference. The matt finish tends to be more natural looking while the gloss finish represents a toy soldier style. Once again, clear coat by Krylon is a better value than hobby store sprays and works just as well.
A wash of Burnt Sienna & water
is applied over the basic flesh tone.
The figures with the finished wash
If you want your figures to portray a more realistic and natural look there are several techniques that will greatly enhance their appearance. The first is washing. Washes are a good way to bring out shadows and details on a figure. Washing involves adding color to the depressions like fabric folds, eye sockets and such. We prefer to use brown for washes but black or gray are also good. Use a small amount of thinner for enamels and for acrylics, use windshield washer fluid (the trace of soap and alcohol in it allows the paint to flow better) and mix in a few drops of brown paint. You want an even flow that runs into the folds and depressions and it may take some practice to get the right consistency. The second, dry brushing, is useful in bringing out the highlights on a figure. Simply lighten the color you want to highlight such as a uniform coat and, using a flat brush, remove most of the paint from the brush by drawing it across a piece of paper towel. Now draw the brush across the figure, leaving a slight trace of the lightened color on the areas you want highlighted. It is best to do the wash first and the dry brushing afterwards. When you are pleased with the look of your figure, seal it as mentioned above. With a little practice and a few basic techniques you sould be able to produce beautiful, eye-catching figures.
Group of Painted Timpo Napoleonics